Two Days in Off-beat Orchha

My search for an off the beaten path destination led me deeper into the countrysides of India. After an overnighter at Khajuraho, I found myself immersed in the alluring charms of Orchha situated in Madhya Pradesh State of Central India.

Orchha in the local tongue, literally meant “hidden place.” Indeed, it was. Among all the places I visited during my one month trip in India, this heritage town was where I felt that I had made it to the “real” side of rural India the most. Local pilgrims filled the town, a handful of other tourists were around at the time, and no pushy touts lurking at every street corner.

Day 1

I was in awe starting from the moment I arrived at my guest house, which had a breathtaking view of the imposing Orchha Fort Complex built on an island citadel along the scenic boulder-strewn Betwa River. I stayed in Orchha for two days and had an engrossing experience exploring the town center on foot.

View of the palaces and walls of the Orchha Fortress Complex from my guest house.

Intimidating spiked first gate of the Orchha Fort.

Orchha Walking Tour

The townscape was dotted with many massive old temples and monuments dedicated to forgotten rulers that would’ve been marveled by flocks by tourists elsewhere. The heritage buildings were not only huge but also decorated by ornate architectures that exuded a somewhat vernacular and distinctive character. Most of them were mysteriously abandoned. They were largely empty inside, save for the echoes of locals chanting prayers or the occasional wandering traveler.

My favorite attraction in Orchha was the Chaturbhuj Temple, which appeared more like a fortress and dominated the whole town with its towering spires.

Locals and shops at the large open square near the Chaturbhuj Temple.

Looking up at the towering Chaturbhuj Temple.

As I was taking photos, a sadhu (holy man), who had the most joyous smile and presence, approached me. He led me to a clearing nearby, and then pointed at the temple spires. After a good squint, I saw a whole flock of Indian vultures nesting there. They reminded me of Garuda, a mythical bird-like humanoid that guards Mount Meru, the center of all the physical, metaphysical and spiritual universes in Hindu and Buddhist faith.

The cheerful Sadhu, who showed me the flock of vultures nesting at Chaturbhuj Temple.

Closer view of the Indian Vultures nesting at the Chaturbhuj Temple.

Spacious and ornate interiors of the Chaturbhuj Temple.

One of the viewing platforms in the Chaturbhuj Temple, which had an excellent view of the townscape.

View from Chaturbhuj Temple

View of the Ram Raja Temple from the Chaturbhuj Temple.

Chaturbhuj (left) and Ram Raja Temple (right).

Front entrance of the Ram Raja Temple.

Sadhu carried a jug of water back to the Chaturbhuj Temple.

Two young girls gamely pose for a photo.

A simple wall at Ram Raja Temple transforms into a beautiful play of long shadows, muted colors, and patterns during the late afternoon.

Not only were the larger man-made edifices exceptional, even the subtle charms of the street side views of town were alluring. My eyes were drawn to the lines, colors, and patterns on walls and houses that were transformed by the long shadows of the afternoon light.

The locals did not mind me as I paraded through town with my camera in tow. I loved the experience of freely strolling around town and not encountering annoying touts attempting to sell me wares or tours.

India was a bizarre otherworldly land. Orccha was no different: Cows wandered everywhere, even lying idly in the middle of the road, without a care in the world; Locals, especially the women, were dressed in colorful traditional outfits (sari), jewelry, and the ubiquitous Bindi on their forehead; Near restaurants, the streets were filled with the tantalizing smell of curry; and at the temples, holy men (sadhus) would gather in all their eccentricities.

Self-portrait at the wall of Ram Raja Temple.

Beautiful simplicity and contrast of colors on one of the houses in Orccha.

The color contrasts of otherwise “ignorable” buildings really caught my eye.

Shadow play and warm colors on the back side of Ram Raja temple.

Unusual and beautiful.

Sunset at Lakshmi Temple

Lakshmi Temple located on top of a hill, which was within easy walking distance from the town center.

View of Orchha Fort and Town Center from the Lakshmi Temple.

Royal Cenothaphs (Monuments) viewed from Lakshmi Temple.

View of Orchha Fort, Chaturbhuj and Town Center from Lakshmi Temple.

Sunset view from Lakshmi Temple.

Just when I thought things couldn’t get any more surprising, a herd of cows casually walks by.

Sunken gardens and beautiful arches at Palaki Mahal.

Shrine at Dinman Hardaul’s Palace. Indian women who desire to be pregnant leave a tie on this shrine.

Orchha, Madhya Pradesh, India

Phool Bagh and Sawar Bhado Pillars.

Thali meal at one of the restaurant along the way leading to Orchha fort bridge.

Lights and Sounds show at Orchha Fort at night.

Day 2

The next day, I crossed the old stone arch-bridge built over the Betwa River to see the palaces of the Orchha Fort Complex. I did not go inside the palace museum, which I regretted after finding out that the exquisite interiors and sculpted balconies were worth visiting. Nevertheless, the overlooking views of the whole town from the high decks were magnificent.

Orchha was built in the early 16th century by the Bundela dynasty and served as the former capital of the state. Louis-Théophile Marie Rousselet, a French explorer who visited India in the late 1800s wrote this interesting snippet about Orchha:

Thus we have an instance of a city between whose foundation and complete abandonment here is an interval of only three centuries. Though not very ancient, it contains many subjects of great interest for the traveller. Built all at one period by a young and powerful race, it has a distinctive character peculair to itself. Everything in it is imposing, full of originality and broadly concieved; and its palaces and its chief temple bear comparison with the masterpieces of the great Hindoo Schools of Architecture.

Causeway to Orchha Fort

Curious monkey watches over.

One of the palaces inside Orchha Fort.

View from Orchha Fort.

Spacious courtyard within Raja Mahal (Palace) at Orchha Fort.

Exterior view of Jahangir Mahal (Palace) at Orchha Fort.

In contrast to Orchha’s reputation as an abandoned city, the town center felt rather lively because of its position as a spiritual center in this part of India. Before leaving, I went inside the Ram Raja Temple which was flocked by devotees. It was supposedly the only temple in India where Lord Rama, the seventh avatar of the Hindu god Vishnu, and a king of Ayodhya, was worshiped as a king.

Orchha, Madhya Pradesh, India

Ram Raja Temple, Orchha, Madhya Pradesh, India

Orchha Market Stall, Madhya Pradesh, India

Aloo Sidestreet Stall at Orchha, Madhya Pradesh, India

Orchha Market Stall, Madhya Pradesh, India

After my two-day walkathon in Orchha, I continued my journey to Gwalior, a historical city known for its artistic hill top fort.

Orchha may be reached through the railway station at Jhansi and then a 30 minute tempo / auto-rickshaw ride.

I stayed at Fort View Guest House, which was located along the main highway before arriving at the town center. The guest house had an awesome view of Orccha Fort, friendly reception, and was an easy walking distance to the town’s major attractions. They had fast free WIFI, and affordable air-cooled rooms with double beds and private TB. I forgot the exact price for the double room. Its was probably around R500 to R700.

You may view more photos and information about my trip at Orchha and Gwalior Itinerary (3 days).